!(#*!@(! Brakes! Stop making me almost crash!

"KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs" (kusabisensei) 01/19/2014 at 18:57 • Filed to: tracklopnik

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So just when you think you have flushed the brake fluid...Nope. Increased pedal travel, and it seems that either the flush has an air bubble trapped in one of the brake circuits, or some other garbage. Anyone have experience with a pressure bleeder?

Needless to say having ANY doubts if the brakes will work absolutely kills concentration on track. Just ask Lewis Hamilton. I'm sure I've lost a few years of life expectency from yesterday.

Zipppy, Mazdurp builder, Probeski owner and former ricerboy > KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs 01/19/2014 at 19:02

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I've used a Harbor Freight hand pump bleeder to bleed my dad's brakes, that plus new rotors results in holyshit stopping power.

EL_ULY > KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs 01/19/2014 at 19:04

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On some cars, if you turn the key on and put in D (slush box) it tricks the ABS pump to activate. Just be carefull, it's going to high pressure bleed. Have plenty of Dot 4 :]

Joe_Limon > KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs 01/19/2014 at 19:13

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I've always found it easiest to get a buddy to help. They don't need to know much, they just need to push the pedal.

KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs > EL_ULY 01/19/2014 at 19:25

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Slushboxes need not apply in my garage.

Both the Mini and the BMW have clutches.

KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs > Joe_Limon 01/19/2014 at 19:29

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See, it was fine before the fluid flush, and I had a buddy to pump the pedal in proper sequence (unscrew, push down and hold, screw, let up slowly).

The FSM states to use a pressure bleeder instead of pumping the pedal. Hence the question.

Ramblin Rover - The Vivisector of Solihull > KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs 01/19/2014 at 19:33

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Power bleeder, no. Bleeding with a vacuum tool, yes. Land Rover clutches are difficult to bleed properly, but the vacuum tool allows moving the fluid fast enough to keep a high point bubble from occurring. Just be prepared for lots of wasted fluid.

KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs > Ramblin Rover - The Vivisector of Solihull 01/19/2014 at 19:39

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I'm thinking a pressure bleeder ($50 or so) plus a few litres of ATE Typ200 should resolve this.

I need to get it resolved somehow before going to Barber Motorsports Park next month.

Clown Shoe Pilot > KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs 01/19/2014 at 19:48

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I have a Motive power bleeder. It's the only way to fly. Buy one, you'll love it.

Joe_Limon > KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs 01/19/2014 at 19:48

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A pressure bleeder essentially automates the manual screw action. Did you keep flushing brake fluid through until no more bubbles appeared? Or did you simply go until you had fluid again?

tromoly > KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs 01/19/2014 at 20:17

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That sequence doesn't sound right, this is how I've been taught.

1. Bleeder screwed in, pump brake pedal several times.

2. Hold brake pedal down, unscrew bleeder.

3. Let pedal hit the floor, screw bleeder back in.

4. Repeat starting at #1 until brake pedal is firm AND only brake fluid comes out of the bleeder screw with no air bubbles.

KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs > Joe_Limon 01/19/2014 at 21:10

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We did it until we didn't see any bubbles for about 10 cycles of the pedal, but since the FSM indicates a pressure bleeder, it may be worth a shot.